23 Sep Buying Acreage in North Florida? A Due Diligence Guide to Wells, Septic & Power
Written by: Billy Golightly, ALC – Lic. Real Estate Broker @ Lands of North Florida Realty Inc
Copyright 2026.
NOTE: This is a broad guide that includes a multitude of generalizations for the sake of discussion in the process. Your individual situation likely varies and has unique factors. Do not take this as law, but more as a general guide so you can know what to investigate and check out further for your particular situation.
QUESTION: Before I buy rural land in North Florida, what do I need to verify about septic (OSTDS), a private well, and electric service so I know the property can support a home or homestead?
ANSWER: There are not just a few factors that go into answering this question, there are a A LOT!
Lets start with a private water well. Generally speaking, because of the nature of the Florida Aquifer, you can get water about anywhere when a well drilling contractor drills a well on a property. You generally have a lot of flexibility on “where” on the property you want to place the well in relation to your future improvements and property layout. Keep in mind there are set back requirements from the boundaries of your property, as well as a minimum set back of 75ft from your own (or any neighboring!) septic systems. You do not want to be too far from where your electrical power source is at, also. It’s a lot cheaper to run water a long distance via piping, than it is to run long distances of electric to reach the pump!
The well drilling contractor will pull the necessary permit from the Suwannee River Water Management District, for the well itself. The county your property is in will need to provide a permit for electrical connection to that well once its installed, which we will get into a bit later under the electrical section.
When drilling a well, what is a little bit more of a variable than getting water itself, is the *quality* of the water. And, it’s not necessarily like there are areas or places where the water is “bad” here (there aren’t natural gas deposits, fracking issues, wide-scale contamination, etc). Although there are not widespread issues with groundwater contamination in our area, it is a good idea to get a water test kit the local heath department or have your water professionally tested before drinking it, and repeating the test on occasion. Whether your well is new, or preexisting.
Areas relatively close to the Suwannee River, are almost always going to have tan/tea/tinted colored well water, because of the proximity to the river and the tannins in the river, filter back into the ground water when you’re very close to the river.
Sulfur odor is also sometimes an issue. Although I do not understand the exact geology/issues behind this personally, I’ve been told over the years by a few different well drillers that if you go too deep on your well, you risk getting higher Sulphur content. Sulphur and highly mineralized water were prized back in the day, and there were many historical baths/spas that were highly sought after because of the high mineralization in the water. So although you may not like the odor of it, particularly if you’re coming from a heavily treated municipal water supply, it doesn’t necessarily mean it’s “bad”. It’s just different. There are methods and ways to help treat/mitigate some of the Sulphur odors your well contractor can talk about with you.
Next thing to think about and consider is the type of well casing and drop pipe that should be used. I would recommend your own research on this topic. Generally speaking, reviews for “cleaner” water come from wells setup with PVC casing, and PVC and/or potable water rated plastic drop pipes to the submersible pumps. But they are harder to install and may take longer to complete the well installation. Parts are not always readily available for service or repair. There are also concerns about the long term durability of a submersible pump hanging in the case from plastic/PVC VS the typical steel drop pipe. This is a relatively new practice, and I don’t have the answer on whether long term this is truly a better system than steel casing or not. Comments I hear are good about the quality of the water coming from them.
Steel cased and drop pipe wells have been the standard since this type of well drilling practice was developed. They have advantages on the installation side and toughness, and the piping is so standardized there would rarely if ever be any shortages of it for installation, and almost every well contractor has standardized parts on their trucks for repairs when necessary. The downside is, that over time (decades) you will begin to get rust particles in your water from the casing, from the drop pipes. You’ll want a filtration system then, and over time it just seems to accelerate in my experience. This is an issue not unlike what you see happen in older cities and towns that have had their potable water supply running through cast iron pipes underground for a hundred plus years – there is just going to be particulate and sediment from the system no matter how good your source water is. The metal drop pipes also will on occasion over the years (10-15’ish in my experience) develop pin holes in the pipe, which will make it where your pump eventually loses pressure, and will not be able to push water up to your pressurized tank above ground and to the remainder of your system. A well contractor will then need to come disconnect the tank and pull the drop pipe and pump up out of the ground until that is located where it can be replaced.
Pumps themselves are generally long lasting (as long or longer than the drop pipes themselves) if your contractor selects a good name brand reputable pump. It costs real money to call these guys out to pull the drop pipes and pumps and replace them when that needs done, so I don’t recommend skimping out on the cost of the pump, not one bit.
Speaking of pump, you should also research and understand your water needs and what flow/capacity of pump you’re going to need for your application and discuss this with your contractor. If you have no intention of ever adding a second home to the property, don’t plan to do any irrigation of plants/trees/gardens, you will have a lot less capacity needs than if you intend to do some, or all of that. Discuss with your well drilling contractor what your needs are so that an appropriately sized pump and GPH output can be selected for your application.
Main cost considerations/factors in well installation: Depth of well drilled. Depth pump sits in the well (drop pipe length). Type of hardware (steel, pvc as mentioned above), size/output of well pump, and distance from well to your electrical supply panel (expense of wire/conduit/trenching to reach the pump). Most well contractors will have an “idea” of how far and deep they have to go drilling, but no one knows for sure until they’re at that point. That’s why wells are often quoted in estimates or on a per-ft basis of depth. They don’t have crystal balls either!
That’s probably enough on wells. Now lets move onto electrical services.
Power. The main and most important thing to know is, that in pretty much all places we work and cover here in North FL – you cannot just get power arbitrarily dropped at your property to hook up and connect to. There has to be a reason for it. And generally speaking, you can only get a permit to get a power drop to a PRIMARY STRUCTURE (IE, a dwelling) FIRST. You cannot build a shed or a barn (accessory structure) and run power to it first. In many cases you cannot run power in for a “camp site” or “RV site” without a lot of other limitations and hoops to jump through. A whole separate article could be written on RV sites so I’ll try not to get into that here. But basically, if there isn’t already power on the property, you need a home, manufactured home, or some kind of dwelling there to run power to for the permit to be approved. There are “agricultural use only” power drops that can be permitted, with a lot of restrictions and an affidavit that it’ll solely be used for agricultural purposes (ie, irrigation, watering troughs for live stock, etc.)
So with that out of the way, the other component is – physically getting power to the property. Most of the power companies and electric cooperatives in our area will allocate a certain amount of linear footage for RESIDENTIAL purposes either free, or at a reduced cost. Once that distance is exceeded, then the price becomes expensive. That is usually around 1,000 linear feet, but it varies. The *very* important thing to realize though is that, the power company will *not* clear the right-of-way where the service is being run. You will have to independently have it cleared. So, if the power has to come through a 1/2mi of woods, you not only have to pay for the cost of the power installation itself, you have to clear the area and distance the power is going to run. Some woods are thicker, bigger, harder to clear than others. One power company I’m familiar with has their specification of “from the ground to the sky”. Meaning stumps, overhanging limbs, etc, everything in that right of way area has to be cleared and open for them to set poles and hang wire.
And finally, occasionally, getting the right-of-way and easement through neighboring properties to yours, can be problematic, as the utility companies generally do not have the unilateral right to run the power wherever they want (or the shortest path) to get to you. Usually, if your property fronts a government maintained road that has a power line on it already, they can tap into that with no issue. If your property is behind several other properties accessed via an easement or private road, it can be problematic. Or if power is several parcels away from yours, that can require more careful consideration and planning. Because then you’re responsible for clearing the right of way through other people’s properties (And getting their permission!) too so it can reach you.
Many of these things are beyond the scope of you, or I, figuring out by ourselves. You should really find out the electric company servicing the area, and find someone in their “engineering” department to discuss with you where exactly you want the power to go. Have your parcel ID# handy. GENERALLY SPEAKING; If you already see power on a boundary of your property, a survey shows an existing utility easement on your property, or along the road your property fronts, you shouldn’t have an issue with this and will be mainly worried about the expense of clearing the new right of way for the drop to your property, and the area where you want the drop put in at. Another “rule of thumb” (But has exceptions of course) is that properties 5 acres and under that front a road with power at the front, you usually don’t have any issues with getting power ran where you want on the property. Above that, and you must start being a little bit more careful and preplanning just because of the distances it may have to run.
Septic systems – and permitting. This is the big one…
A few things to know and keep in mind as you read and go through the following. The State of FL and the environmental conscious side is in a strong mode right now of trying to limit nitrogen emission by on site septic systems. This has brought on new system requirements that are often times significantly more expensive to design and build, than conventional “legacy system” old style tank and drain line systems. Certain portions of the state have already mandated these new systems. By parcel acreage size (1ac or less) and in some places, all new systems must meet these new standards. In other places, the state of FL is mandating that known good working systems must be replaced with the new technology by a certain future date, like the Inidian River Lagoon area. They’re also encouraging build out and future connection of centralized water-sewer systems to also control the contaminants and nitrogen emissions from individual septic systems. The state of FL’s Department of Environmental Protection has a BMAP website, with maps and layers, you can research and learn more about this on.
In our area, the county health departments are the ones that permit septic systems. They do not do perc tests without a formal application submitted. The formal application is needed because the department has no way of knowing what your intended use for the system is, without it. Are you building a 650sqft 1 bedroom home, or a 7,500sqft 9 bedroom McMansion? The system requirements are different, for different uses. The other thing to note is, that when you submit your application, you mark/designate a spot where you want the perc test completed, a sample of dirt collected, and then the health department designs the system based on that sample collection and the systems needs/requirements. They, generally speaking, DO NOT “hunt around” or try to find the best place possible for your system. You or your contractor mark where you want it, the health department takes a sample from that spot. So sometimes it can be advantageous to work with someone that is willing to poke around and find what may be the optimal place to place the system, from a design and construction standpoint. Clay, lime rock, and dense moist ground/mud type soils can be problematic for perc tests and then usually you need fill dirt, like I mentioned.
There are also aerobic systems, which can be utilized (again, at health department’s direction on the design and kind of system you get). These require electric power for a grinder pump that has to run to assist the operation, and the state requires you to be under an annual maintenance contract to ensure the system operates properly. The new nitrogen reducing systems are more like a double tank electric powered system – I have not saw any of these in person yet but that is my understanding in basic terms of how they work.
After you have your design and system requirements from the health department from your application, then you can take that to a septic contractor to get quotes and get it physically installed. Again, your septic contractors and installers do not design the system, the health department does, and they issue the permit with the parameters needed and required for your particular usage.
*Usually* – for septic systems it isn’t a matter of “if” you can get one, it’s a matter of how much it may cost to put it in. The exception to this rule is river properties and those within the “floodway” flood plain area. Suwannee River Water Management District prohibits fill dirt/rock/gravel/material from being brought into any floodway designated area. Because the ground has to “perc” – aka percolate out the liquids and drain, and if it doesn’t, the usual solution is to haul in sand, gravel, or a coarse dirt that will drain and build the drain field system into that new material. You can see how this would be problematic. If your native ground won’t perc, and you’re prohibited from hauling in new material that would perc, well, then you are in pickle. In that instance you will probably need to go through a very specialized process with your health department application and get a system designed by a 3rd party engineer (You pay for) and/or request a variance to the septic system rules.
Another factor is set back requirements. There is a state wide rule for a spacing of no less than 75ft between any septic drain field and a potable water well. This is for your own system but also any neighboring ones. IE, if you’re on a smaller lot and your neighbors have wells on either side of you near your boundary line, you have to be 75ft from each one of those, for your drainfield for your septic system. So this is another place where you can see there is some practical considerations and challenges sometimes on designing and placing a system on a property. Not to mention you also have county building code setback requirements, water management river bank setbacks, etc to all factor in.
There is some expectation that because of the greater efficiency of the new nitrogen reducing systems that at some point in the future the state may allow a lesser distance setback to potable water wells, but as of now it still stands at 75ft.
Existing septic systems *can* be beneficial and reutilized, sometimes. They obviously need to be in good working condition. The main thing is that the existing inground tank must be commiserate with the current standards of bedroom count (I believe it is a 900 gallon tank for a 3 bedroom home. More bedrooms, larger tank required). The health departments also have kept fairly poor (okay, very) records until probably the last 5-7 years. In most cases an existing system may not have a good paper trail for its installation date, tank size, drainfield specifications, etc. The health department offers a permit application for existing systems that predate the current permitting records. It does require you to have it inspected by a septic contractor and for it to be in good condition. In most counties now, if you have a former home site that has a well, septic, and power, but the home is gone and you’re trying to get a new one on the property or get the power reconnected, the building department will require a clear septic inspection and/or permit from the health department, for these existing systems before any new building permit or power reconnect permit can be issued.
Secondary questions / FAQ
- Will this land support a septic system / what does a site evaluation check?
County health departments will require a full septic system permit application, to do a site evaluation/perc test. Keep in mind, as mentioned in my article, they have to know what you’re building, and they ONLY check the specific area YOU designate. Not the entire property. Some septic contractors may offer a “spot check” perc test opinion. But their opinion is not final or binding, the full application package the health department’s determination is.
- Who issues septic permits in Suwannee, Hamilton, Columbia, Lafayette, and Madison counties?
The county Health Departments, Department of Environmental Health. Some counties share resources between other counties. Columbia County’s health department is a bit of an umbrella over other counties that are short staffed and/or inexperienced.
- Do I need a permit to drill a well, and who issues it here?
Your well drilling contractor will obtain a permit from the Suwannee River Water Management District. Many prior well permits are available for search/review through the SRWMDs E-permitting function on their website.
- How deep are residential wells typically in this area?
Not much is typical, but I would say it is rare to see one less than 100ft deep, and rare to see one over 180ft deep.
- What if the tract already has a well and septic?
Usually nothing is needed regarding existing wells as far as permitting (The exception being large irrigation wells that require consumptive use permits to transfer to the new owner). Existing wells can be checked for function by a well contractor even if there isn’t power there, by using a generator. They will connect the generator and run the pump and/or diagnose the system if it isn’t pumping as expected.
Septic wise, it should be pumped and inspected by a septic contractor. It would be a good idea to try and locate previous permitting information, and if it is an older system without a paper trail like I mentioned above, I would get it permitted as an existing system so there are no issues with a repair in the future. The main issues on preexisting systems are roots in the drainfield and/or tank, cracked/collapsed/broken tanks from driving over, and on aerobic system the pumps and electrical components can need replacement if they have not been used in a while. Your septic contractors can inspect all of this and give you recommendations for a functional system. Prices start around $300 for a pump and inspection and go up from there usually.
- How do I estimate power / line-extension cost before I offer?
You need to determine exactly where you want to put the drop on your property first, then begin a conversation with the power companies engineering/new connection division and see if it qualifies for the free or subsidized distance run for new power. You’d then need to talk to a tree trimming business/arborist about clearing the right-of-way area needed for that new service to come through, since as I mentioned in the article, the power companies themselves do not clear the right of ways and require you to do that for them. They drill holes, set poles, and string wire. Power companies not in the land clearing business. When you are far enough along in the process, the power company will stake and mark out the exact areas they need to place poles so your arborist or land clearing person knows what needs to be cleared.
- What should be written into the purchase contract as contingencies?
In our standard FL Realtors vacant land contracts, you’re given a very generous inspection and feasibility study period to checkout whatever you want, and cancel for basically any reason within that time frame. So consider the time frame necessary for you, on your schedule, to perform the amount of due diligence you’re comfortable with and negotiate that into the contract, more than worrying about naming specific items as “contingencies”. There is no need to name individual contingencies since you have the right to terminate within that specified inspection period. The time you need is what matters. Most sellers expect to see a 15-30 day inspection period in an offer. Not usually longer than that unless there are a lot of mitigating circumstances or complexities to resolve.